Oppoinions needed

"If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent" (essextee) 02/09/2016 at 09:21 • Filed to: None

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When it’s cold the Wrangler runs like the cylinders are full of rocks and dies the moment you let off the throttle. It also leaves a huge amount of soot on the ground. To me, that screams it’s either running incredibly rich, or misfiring. It runs just fine after it warms up. Any other ideas? It’s got the 4.2.

This soot is after running just for the duration of the video above. The pavement is also wet, so the spot doesn’t seem as dark as it really is.

davedave1111 > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:25

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Choke problem?

macanamera > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:27

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Bad compression when it's cold.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > davedave1111 02/09/2016 at 09:27

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I don’t know enough about carbs so I have no clue. It was running perfectly fine last week.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > macanamera 02/09/2016 at 09:29

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So am I looking at a head gasket or a piston ring? Is it possible for the valves to not seat properly?

Gone > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:29

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I would assume the electric choke isn’t working properly. ASSume. Or is gunked up. But most likely carb related.

Maybe this would help (or not):

http://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-idle-an…

davedave1111 > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:32

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The choke richens the mixture when it’s ‘on’, so it might explain your symptoms. I have no clue about carbs, though.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Gone 02/09/2016 at 09:33

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Carb is not the stock electronic one, it’s completely mechanical.

Aaron M - MasoFiST > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:35

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If it runs fine when warm this is almost certainly a choke issue. If it’s not electric, it might be vacuum operated? I’m assuming there’s no choke lever on the dash, because if there is your solution is easy. :-p

Gone > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:38

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Well....crap. Mech choke may not be working or need adjusting, bad carb gasket, adjust and reset idle mixture screws, or gunk in the low speed circuit. Should cover most carb issues for your problem. Or you have an ignition issue.

Party-vi > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 09:43

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“It’s got the 4.2"

^ the problem

dietryng > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 10:04

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mechanical? as in no electronics on it? like Looseon said, adjust your choke while its cold. but back in the olden days you had to keep your foot on the gas for a little while to keep things running until it would finally get up to temp. modern efi that starts right up, and is good to run down the road instantly has spoiled folks.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > dietryng 02/09/2016 at 10:17

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Wrangler ran fine last week, there’s definitely something wrong.

The thing came from the factory with an electronically managed Carter carb. Sometime before it came into our ownership, someone replaced it with a traditional Weber.

Birddog > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 10:27

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Start at the Carb.

What model Carb do you have?

dietryng > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 10:32

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on the old mechanical style chokes you have to “set” them by holding your foot to floor for a sec. that allowed for the adjustment of the choke spring to shut the choke and the high idle. but as soon as you start giving it gas on some itll kick the choke off.( sorry if you know all this already) it just sounds like something is out of adjustment. back in the old days there was a whole lot of adjustments going on. you’d try and optimize it for warm days, and then try and get it to even fire off on cold mornings.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Birddog 02/09/2016 at 10:38

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Some sort of Weber 2bbl. It only has a choke on one barrel so it's a progressive unit, I think.

Gone > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 10:44

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Oh, a Weber conversion...

I’m assuming a 32/36 DGV or a 38DGS? Make sure the adaptor plate gaskets are good. Some of those plates are notorious for bad machining and don’t have good mating surfaces. Easy to nuke a gasket.

Was the Nutter bypass done at the same time? I realize you didn’t do the swap, but it should help it run better in general. If it was done, check that the wiring job is good. If not, look into correcting it or doing it yourself. Since it’s already got a non-emissions carb, I’ll assume emissions aren’t a worry...

Also make sure the studs aren’t pushing the adapter off the manifold. Also look into resetting the plates for idle position. Worst case, redo the studs because you don’t want to crank down on them when you install, new gaskets, resurface the adaptor plate, and redo/do the nutter bypass. But check all the carb settings (not having the enrichment hole uncovered at idle, not exceeding max idle speed screw, max 2-3turns on the mixture screw on the 32/36, etc etc..), gaskets, and wiring first. Webers are pretty cool when set up right and you shouldn’t have to touch it afterwards. It’s been a good decade time since I’ve done one though.

There’s lots of good info to nail settings and diagnose a 32/36 or 38 Weber on the Jeep forums. Figure out which one you’ve got first.

Birddog > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 10:48

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It sounds like the choke is closing too far when cold. There are 3 screws on the Choke housing you can loosen, that will let you rotate the actuator and lean out the cold idle. As you rotate it you should see the choke plate moving.

There should be a good tutorial on YouTube for this.

My bird IS the word > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 02/09/2016 at 11:34

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I apologize if this is unhelpful. It could be any number of things, I would just go through the whole carburetor and ignition system. check what is easiest and cheapest first, so plugs, wires, points, since these can be looked at in about an hour. Then I would dick around with the carb. I wouldnt start with anything serious like gaskets if it could be something small and cheap.